Available
Here is our list of available hatchlings for 2011 and surplus adults that just don’t fit into our breeding plans anymore. We do not keep a waiting list or take deposits on hatchlings until good eggs are laid. If you don’t see the morph you are interested in let us know because not every morph we have is listed. Some of our morphs take 2-4 sheds to really show their real colors so bare with us on those morphs, such as the incredible Cayenne Fires and TS Pink Corns . The pictures of the hatchlings are the exact hatching unless noted in the picture and description. Please click on any picture to enlarge it and click again to reduce the picture.CARE
Before purchasing any animal for a pet or any other reason make sure you have the time for the care of and correct enclosure for it. Do plenty of research before your purchase. Cornsnakes need a secure enclosure such as an aquarium with a sliding and locking lid. An undertank heater (no thermostat) should be underneath one end. With the bedding placed inside (I suggest aspen) the temperature on top of the bedding on the warm end should be in the low to mid 80’s and the cool side the mid 70’s. Make sure there are plenty of hides in the tank so that the snake can decide what temperature it wants to be resting at for digestion or normal living. The reason for 95% of hatchlings not eating or regurging is incorrect temperatures. With the hatchlings it is always better to thaw the pinkies in hot water to thaw, this does two things, it thaws the pinkies quickly and it rinses them off. There is a lot of smells associated with pinks that the snake doesn’t care for. Other snakes besides cornsnakes have different requirements and we will be happy to provide care information if requested.
Anery Stripe
ID: 11-3BR-5
Sex: Female
Hets: None
Feeding: F/T Pinkies
Birth Date: 6/23/11
Normal Stripe
ID: 11-6NF-14
Sex: male
Hets: Butter Pos. het anery
Feeding: F/T Pinkies
Birth Date: 7/23/11